| March part 2 
		Things are 
		progressing nicely, out of 147 cutting tubers planted all but three are 
		actively growing with only a handful not yet having broken the surface 
		of the compost. The adult tubers are a bit slower, albeit that some were 
		pipped before planting, but all are throwing up basal shoots and will 
		need to be potted on in the next few days (not a lot of top growth but 
		they now have a root system ready to be moved into a soil based 
		compost). At this time of the year I am happy to encourage the plant to 
		grow root rather than top growth.This is 
		always an interesting time of the year for me as a lot is happening but 
		can easily go unseen. For those of you that started your tubers in 
		plastic pots, I am sure by now you will see signs that some of the pots 
		are starting to become distorted as the tuber within increases in size.  
		You may also find that your plants have two different periods of growth. 
		During a period of approximately 4 - 6 days they will predominantly 
		produce top growth and less bottom growth (root) and the following 4 - 6 
		days that order will be reversed. On occasion a grower will comment on 
		how their plants have just sat still during a particular period but, 
		unknown to them they have in fact put their energy into producing root 
		(obviously the top growth is the one that is more apparent). Watering at 
		this time can be an issue and the plants should be checked on a daily 
		basis and watered if required.
 I have now started to mix my soil based compost in readiness for second 
		potting and had a play about with a number of 1 litre pots multi tubers 
		in larger pots. Just as I thought the maximum that will go into a 7.5 
		litre pot is three and even that is at a push.
 Thanks to 
		Phil Champion I acquired two plants which I will grow on as pot plants. 
		These were started a few weeks earlier than mine and being more advanced 
		I should be able to use them as “control specimens”.  Both have their 
		basal shoots forward facing, one with two basal shoots and the other 
		three (two at the rear and one at the front). At this juncture I should 
		also say that the one with three basal shoots is a cutting tuber.  In 
		addition, I will identify a number of my own adult/cutting tubers which 
		I will also grow as pot plants.
 Let us look 
		at the plant with three basal shoots in more detail. If I were to stop 
		(remove the growing point) the front basal shoot above the second or 
		third leaf how would the plant react? If it was a plant with a single 
		basal shoot then by stopping it, we would force the plant to divert all 
		of its energy into the production of side shoots.  Would that still be 
		the case with a plant that has two additional basal shoots or would it 
		purely concentrate the majority of its efforts on growing the remaining 
		two basal shoots. By doing this it would ultimately lead to flower 
		production by the quickest route (its goal). If by stopping the front 
		basal shoot I am successful in my attempt to cause the plant to produce 
		side shoots on that basal earlier than normal then all going well, it 
		should go on to produce side shoots on those side shoots. When flowering 
		it may produce a plant which could carry its blooms in a tiered effect 
		using the produce of the front basal shoot as the lower tier of flowers 
		and the produce of the two rear basal shoots forming the upper tier of 
		flowers.  I can hear the response already “Definitely No”.
 If the 
		plant does not play ball then I will have to activate plan B.
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