Episode 15 – 
		early November
		
		I actually made 
		a start on this episode in late September so should have finished it 
		long before now, but I’ve had a lot of things do so I’m relieved that I 
		have finally got round to it!
		At the end of 
		September, we arrived back home from a week in the sun with my batteries 
		as recharged as they would ever be and just as well because there were 
		lots of begonia jobs to catch up on. Although everything was well 
		watered before we left, they were well on their way to drying out when 
		we arrived home. It was too early to start withholding water so they all 
		had a little drink and the later cuttings also had a balanced feed to 
		keep them growing. Although there was no damage from the storms, the 
		fleece that I use to line the insides of the greenhouses was badly 
		shredded in one of them because the fleece had been up for 2 seasons and 
		had become very brittle, also because I had left the doors and louvres 
		open, there was quite a mess to clear up. It’s clear that sunlight is 
		the culprit as only the south facing side was affected – see below 
		
		
		
		
		
		 As things 
		stand now on the 13th of November, the adult plants have 
		finally decided it’s hibernation time – a couple of light frosts 
		probably made their minds up for them and the last couple of days have 
		seen me busy clearing up fallen leaves and stems. The earlier cuttings 
		are also going down but I’m not too concerned, as they appear to have 
		produced some decent sized tubers that should keep well if left in the 
		pots until January. The later cuttings are still growing and getting the 
		occasional feed; if they can grow until Christmas time I will be happy 
		enough and will start them up probably mid January.
		As the saying 
		goes, there’s a first time for everything and for the first time I’ve 
		got a cutting tuber with stem rot. It will come as no surprise to anyone 
		who has grown it that the variety is Mrs Dan Ramage – see below. 
		I rooted everything I could from this variety this year so I do have a 
		reasonable number of cuttings but this set back does make me nervous! 
		
		
		
		
		
		 I was working 
		on my ‘What Went Well’ and ‘Areas For Improvement’ lists for 2018 while 
		sitting in the sun. This is just two lists that I use to summarise the 
		season and decide what I need to do to improve next time, in other words 
		from now on, so while Pauline was buried in her Kindle, I was busy 
		reviewing my growing year from September 2017 to September 2018. 
		The lists could 
		be as brief or as detailed as I want, but I think it is better to 
		dismiss things later rather that forget about them, so I include just 
		about everything – well, everything I can remember! So, here are a few 
		of the items that are in my AFI list that I’ll be thinking about over 
		the winter months.
		
		 Tuber 
		Storage
		Last winter, I brought my tubers out from the garage in early January to 
		avoid the risk of frost. I kept them as cold as I could in the 
		conservatory which gets very little sunlight at that time of year and 
		put them back in the garage if it got too warm, but I noticed later on 
		that even though I staggered the start up of the adult tubers 
		– 
		
		because my two main shows were 3 weeks apart, it had made little 
		difference to them by mid March, probably because they had all pipped 
		before early February. I am going to try using the loft this winter and 
		have rearranged things up there so I have easy access for my weekly 
		inspection. Separate start up dates are even more critical this year 
		with Dundee being a week later and I know that with certain varieties I 
		will need to use adult tubers for Dundee because that is what I will 
		have available. 
		
		 Rooting 
		cuttings
		This is a real mystery to me – over the last couple of years it seems 
		that my success rate at rooting cuttings has drastically reduced. There 
		was a time when I thought I would be able to root matchsticks, but now 
		my confidence levels are at an all time low. The strangest thing is that 
		when they do root, (the begonias not the matchsticks!) everything is 
		completely normal for the majority, it’s just that some of them rot and 
		my list of reasons is long and varied which basically means that I 
		haven’t a clue why and I really am clutching at straws. What I will do 
		next year is keep more data about varieties, rooting mediums, 
		propagators, temperatures etc. to help find out why. This past season in 
		particular I have tried too many different methods meaning I haven’t a 
		clue what difference they made but it also makes me suspect that it is 
		something entirely different that is the root cause – sorry; couldn’t 
		resist that!
		
		 Top 
		Dressing
		I 
		have mentioned before that I don’t top dress my plants. My logic is that 
		it impacts on my ability to water the plants correctly. When first 
		potted up, I check for watering by lifting the pots, because while the 
		roots are busy growing into the new compost, the surface of the compost 
		may look dry but it can still be wet underneath, so by lifting the pot I 
		can gauge what it needs by it’s weight. By the time the roots have 
		filled the pot, the plant is becoming too large to lift without me 
		inflicting some leaf damage but by this time I can gauge the need for 
		water by the compost surface, as at this stage the compost tends to dry 
		out more evenly. My concern about using a top dressing is that this top 
		layer will dry out quicker than the rest of the compost meaning I am at 
		risk of over-watering.
		Having said all of that, I have always understood the benefits of the 
		process – my late chrysanthemums were always top dressed, sometimes 
		twice a season, but as they were grown in clays I also had the advantage 
		of being able to tap the pot – a dull sound means the compost still has 
		moisture and a higher sound indicates that it is drying out. So does it 
		mean that I am missing out on the benefits of top dressing only because 
		I am not confident about knowing when to water? I suppose the real issue 
		here is why do I feel this may be something that my plants are missing 
		out on? Basically, I think I usually produce enough petals; certainly on 
		my blooms grown on adult tubers, it’s just sometimes it looks like the 
		individual petals have not developed to their full potential. This could 
		be feed related – I know that I am not the heaviest of feeders but also 
		by the time the flowering period has arrived, my pots are packed with 
		roots so I think that some additional compost will keep the whole plant 
		developing and the small amount of additional fertilizer in the top 
		dressing will contribute as well. By the way, credit for this topic 
		being on my list goes to Colin Elsworth who has kept on at me about top 
		dressing for a couple of years now!
		
		 Pot 
		size for flowering cuttings
		This 
		is along the same lines as top dressing inasmuch as I suspect that my 
		flowering cuttings do not quite fulfill their potential. Talking to 
		Robert Bryce at Dundee, he commented that some of my blooms were just 
		lacking a row of petals. I had already been thinking about this 
		particularly as the ones in question were the cuttings. For the last 
		couple of years, I have tended to use mainly adult tubers and a few 
		cutting tubers for Shrewsbury and mainly cutting tubers and a few 
		cuttings for Dundee. Last year I got away with it perhaps because of the 
		cooler conditions when the blooms opened slower and also in 2016 when I 
		had some good Colin Hamilton and a couple of other varieties in 
		mid September on cuttings. The cuttings are all flowered in a 2 litre 
		pot and there is very little room at the top of the pot for watering by 
		the time the flowering period arrives. I’m sure that I pot them lower 
		than this so I’m wondering if it is just root expansion that fills the 
		pot this high. What I am considering trying is using a 3 litre pot, but 
		putting the plant in low down, effectively using a similar amount of 
		compost that I would use in a 2 litre pot. This will allow me the space 
		to top dress if I want to and it will also make watering easier. It may 
		also do away with the need to plunge the pot into a bigger one to 
		improve stability – a job that I don’t enjoy!
		
		 That’s just a few of my ideas for next year, my thoughts may change over 
		the next few months but I suppose at least I am thinking about it and it 
		isn’t about change for change sake. Basically it boils down to this – If 
		you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve 
		always got. 
		
		The 
		Jungle
		Unfair comments are being made from time to time here at home about the 
		increased amount of greenery that has gradually built up in the 
		conservatory. This has happened for a few years now and from now until 
		January, Pauline calls it the Jungle which I think is a bit unfair, so 
		just to help clarify things I sent her an e-mail with the official 
		Oxford Dictionary Online definition – ‘A 
		room with a glass roof and walls that is attached to a house at one side 
		and used as a sun lounge or for growing delicate plants’ Her reply – and 
		what is the definition of a greenhouse – you’ve got three of them! 
		
		
		Varieties flowered for the first time in 2018
		When 
		I get a new variety, I don’t always flower it the same year because the 
		priority is always building up my stock, but occasionally I will flower 
		them the same year if they have produced a decent number of cutting 
		early on. 
		
		
		Robert Tyler Murphy 
		– the tuber I got early last year started off slowly in 2018 and looked 
		like it would struggle to catch up but a couple of last years cuttings 
		taken from it got away well and produced two really good flowers – 
		unfortunately, given the season we have had and the fact that it looks 
		like it’s going to be a 38 day variety for me, they were both past their 
		best and edged just before the shows – I grew one each for Shrewsbury 
		and Dundee. Talking to other growers I also found out that it’s a bad 
		one for marking but that aside, I was very impressed with the form, 
		especially the centers and size does not appear to be an issue meaning 
		it probably could be shown young. 
		
		
		
		
		
		 Anniversary 
		– you don’t see an awful lot of this one around the show benches 
		although Phil Champion regularly shows it to very good effect. Without 
		getting into the ‘is it a yellow or an orange, or a bi-colour or a self’ 
		debate, suffice to say that it’s a great colour that brightens up a 
		board and on a twelve board especially, it can break up the ranks of 
		reds, pinks and oranges to really good effect. It’s a lovely plant to 
		grow, with almost variegated foliage and the petals are far tougher than 
		any I have seen on a tuberous double. Additionally it is perfectly round 
		with a good centre and a very symmetrical petal lay. Three plants grown 
		and three blooms shown left me with very little to complain about. 
		
		
		
		 
 
		
		
		Fantasia 
		– I didn’t really take much notice of this variety until Ayr 2015 when 
		Jim Mihulka showed a couple, including one belter on his winning 12 
		board, but to be fair, he had already told me on more than one occasion 
		before then that he rated it highly. I only flowered the one plant but 
		it ended up on my Shrewsbury 12 board. The same thing applies to 
		Fantasia as Anniversary in that it breaks up the other colours. It also 
		seems to have naturally good depth so I’m planning to grow a few more in 
		2019 which makes it a good acquisition as Daisy Trinder, 
		Lindsey Murray and Beryl Rhodes currently look like getting 
		dropped from the Team Shepherdson squad!
		
		
		
		
		
		 Joyce 
		Champion 
		– a leaf cutting taken last year grew well and I could tell that it had 
		divided. When I took it out of the pot in early August there were four 
		pea sized tubers. I potted them up individually and they went on to 
		produce tubers around 3 centimeters across. They grew vigorously when 
		started up and three were flowered. One ended up on my Shrewsbury 12 
		board, the other two were just too early for Dundee. Lots of promise; if 
		it’s as reliable as Fair Maid of Perth it’ll do for me. 
		
		
		
		 
 
		
		 
		
		Dena – another one of the newer varieties 
		around and raised by Dave Coates. A finely edged picotee that I suspect 
		will take a bit of understanding to get it anywhere near to the standard 
		of it in Dave’s hands. It also looks like it is going to be less than 40 
		days with me, so I’ll start with 38 days for next year and I’m sure it 
		will also benefit from being shown young. Size is definitely not a 
		problem; I just need to learn how to tame it a bit then take it from 
		there. 
		
		
		
		
		
		 Moonlight 
		– I mentioned this variety in an earlier episode; I had one planned for 
		Shrewsbury that didn’t make it because of a bent petal that spoilt the 
		form with a couple of weeks left to go. It’s still a variety I like and 
		will continue with it for 2019. I guess everyone uses certain criteria 
		for growing the varieties that they do but for me they are:
     ●   
		 Do I like it?
		
		     ●   
		 Does it grow well for me?
		
		     ●   
		 Does it have best bloom 
			potential?
		The 
		first criteria is a given but as long as it also has one of the others 
		it becomes a candidate. Currently Moonlight ticks the first and third 
		box, so I’ll see how it does over the next few years. 
		
		
		
		
		
		 Joan 
		Bryce 
		– I obtained a good sized cutting tuber of this in February and as it 
		had produced a few early cuttings for me, I let it flower. Fabulous 
		colour, good form and very round, but it was a bit down on size however 
		and edged just before Dundee. I need to give this variety a bit of 
		thought as to how to get a touch more size into it for next year. It’s a 
		tall, quite vigorous growing plant.
		
		 
		
		 Emily 
		Rose 
		– I also flowered this one first time as I had a two year old tuber that 
		had given me enough early cuttings to play with for next year. I have 
		always liked this variety except for one fault, which is that it has a 
		tendency to produce one guard petal bigger than the other, which impacts 
		on the symmetry of the bloom. I love the colour and it can produce 
		incredibly neat centers however mine ended up with a poor centre that 
		looked like it had some sort of damage. Looking forward to trying a few 
		more next year.
		
		 What’s keeping me awake at night?
		It’s 
		less than 40 sleeps to Christmas now and I need to start thinking about 
		what I want from Santa. A heated mat is top of the list; I had thought 
		about a sulphur vaporizer but I haven’t seen any mildew whatsoever this 
		year – even on Flamboyant! The sweet peas got a touch of it as usual but 
		this was more my fault because I didn’t spray them at the same time as 
		the begonias were done. Apparently mildews are species specific so 
		mildew on sweet peas will not trouble begonias etc. etc. I don’t know 
		where I read this – somewhere on the internet I think so I must look 
		into it sometime to make sure I’ve got my facts right!